Visiting or moving to Tokyo as a veg*n (=vegan or vegetarian) requires preparation, especially for those who are very strict with their consumption habits. The number of vegans here is minuscule and even ovo/lacto-vegetarians number only a few thousand at best.
Eating fish is seen as integral to Japanese culture. Fish is everywhere, including in many broths, or as an ingredient in sauces and condiments. Japanese food labels aren't always precise which means that sometimes there is no way of telling whether an ingredient, e.g. an emulsifier, is made from animal sources or not.
It's not all bad though. As far as shopping goes, almost every imaginable ingredient is available (except for the new meat replacements like BeyondMeat), if not in a brick-and-mortar stores, then online. Eating out in Tokyo has become much easier in recent years, too. There are many quality eateries where veg*ns can eat well. It's a big city though so getting from A to B can be tiring.
Shopping for cruelty-free shoes or cosmetics can be difficult although there are options such as Body Shop and Lush, and shoes made from synthetic materials. If you are only going to be here for a short while, just bring your own stuff and forget about shopping here.
Meeting other vegans and vegetarians has become easy thanks to a few monthly meet-ups. Many of these are advertised in our FB group, and permanent links are in the About section.
A word of warning about cheese. As in western countries, most cheese in Japan is made with rennet, a complex of enzymes traditionally harvested from the stomachs of cows. Rennet can also be made synthetically which makes it suitable for vegetarians. It's impossible to tell from labels though which type of rennet was used in the production of any particular cheese.In other words, cheese served in sandwiches, on pizza and pasta etc, contains rennet, and that rennet may not be vegetarian. Rennet-free cheeses are available in health stores and sold as vegetarian cheeses but options are few and these products are expensive.
Where to shop
This post includes a set of Japanese phrases that you can print out and show to shop clerks. These will allow you to ask staff to confirm whether a product you are showing them contains any animal materials.
Local supermarkets and groceries carry a great variety of high quality vegetables, fruits, local ingredients, and an increasingly decent variety of non-Japanese ingredients as well. For the simple necessities, these local shops will do. To find specific ingredients that non-Japanese are used to from home, several “international” supermarkets and specialty stores are helpful. Happycow.net doesn’t show the supermarkets but it does show specialty stores on its Tokyo map, among them Natural Mart in Hiroo, Natural House in Aoyama (these two being “health food” stores carrying numerous vegan items), and Ambika in Ueno (for Indian ingredients).
The most well known foreigner-oriented supermarkets are the Nisshin in Azabu-Juuban, National Azabu in Hiroo and Kinokuniya in Aoyama. English is spoken at all three of them. Nisshin has the greatest variety of products and is the cheapest of the three. There are also the Seijo Ishii grocery chain which carries a decent variety of non-Japanese ingredients but English is not spoken here. The same goes for Kaldi, a chain selling imported foods from all over the world, including condiments, chocolates, biscuits, teas, coffee, ready-to-eat meals etc.
There are certain neighborhoods that are famous for cheap shopping, and for the many foreign ingredients that can be bought there, in particular Ameyoko and the area around Shin-Okubo station, known as Korea Town to some but with many Chinese, Indian, and other non-Korean/non-Japanese groceries.
Online stores come to the rescue where real life shopping won't do. Amazon Japan is very convenient, can be switched to English and features some interesting vendors on its market place such as Kobe Spice, a vendor of bulk legumes, rice and mostly Indian spices. Indojin Dot Com, as the name implies, is another great source for Indian ingredients, instant meals etc. The Tengu online store targets the organic crowd and also carries numerous items of interest to veg*ns, such as soy meats. English version of the store is available. Yousei No Mori and Greens Vegetarian are two online shops specifically catering to the needs of veg*ns though both require Japanese language skills. Karuna makes amazing chicken-like soy meats and fake shrimps (some of which can also be ordered from above Tengu, Greens and Yousei No Mori stores.) Nakaichi Foods imports many veg*n products from Taiwan, including some pretty good wiener-like sausages. US-based iHerb ships supplements, protein powders and certain foods to Japan, free of delivery charge.
Where to eat
This post contains an explanation of a vegan’s needs for waiters that you can print out, and you may get lucky at some regular eateries showing this. Mostly, it will be futile. When all else fails, there likely will be an Indian restaurant nearby wherever you are. Most will carry at least a couple of veg options.
Happycow.net lists over one-hundred vegan, vegetarian and veg-friendly restaurants in Tokyo but many of them are duds, or outside the central areas of Tokyo typically frequented by foreigners. Here is a selection of places in inner Tokyo that have received numerous positive mentions in our FB group over the years or that we can personally vouch for.
Mr Farmer is a chain that serves mostly western casual food such as burgers, salads etc. It has branches in Shinjuku, Omotesando, Roppongi, Hibiya and Komazawa currently, with more planned for the near future. Much of the food here is omni but there are enough vegetarian and vegan options to keep us happy. The quality is very high and the portobello mushroom burger is to die for. Customers can "design" their own salads from a menu of options at some locations. All Mr Farmers open at 9:00 so that a late breakfast is possible. Coco Ichibanya is a ubiquitous chain of Japanese style curry eateries that have introduced a vegan menu at all their Tokyo locations (list of locations is here.) The Nataraj chain of Indian restaurants is all-vegetarian and vegan-suitable as well, and has locations in Ginza, Shibuya, Ogikubo and Tateshina.
T’s in Jiyugaoka serves a yummy variety of vegan dishes of vaguely western and Japanese provenance, including some surprisingly good mock meats. The deserts and cakes may be the best in town. This is probably the most consistently rated vegan restaurant in Tokyo. A bit out of the way though. Ain Soph Journey in Shinjuku is another well reviewed classic (although arguably not as good as T's.) The pancakes and deserts at Journey are frequently mentioned so perhaps an afternoon visit for coffee is better than a dinner visit. It's sister store AinSoph.ripple, opened in 2015, serves some of the city's best burgers and other casual western foods. Saishoku Kenbi, very close to the Shin-Okubo shopping area and station, serves excellent Japanese, Chinese and western vegetarian dishes. Some contain egg or dairy, many are vegan. The staff are sensitive to the needs of vegans and will be happy to assist. Day time only, dinner by special reservation. Roughly in the same wider area of Shinjuku is Sojo Cafe, a highly rated vegan eatery (no lunch, opens in the afternoon and closes at 21:00.)
Hanada Rosso in Jingumae is a casual albeit sterile western diner which despite being a diner closes at 9pm (last order at 8pm!). The burgers and fake chicken nuggets here are pretty good. Brown Rice Café, also Jingumae, gets consistent rave reviews for its stylish interior and great vegan food (well, except for the honey in a few dishes). Tamana Shokudo of Aoyama (and with branches in Toyosu and Kojimachi), also in the upscale/stylish dining category, has received some strong reviews. Some dishes contain fish, but they also have satisfying vegan options. Eightablish in Minami-Aoyama (not far from Omotesando) serves high quality, Mediterranean-inspired food. Feedback on food quality and ambience is consistently good but there have been complaints about very slow service.
In Shibuya, Nagi Shokudo serves a well-diversified menu of Japanized Indian and western dishes and also has a deli take-out counter. Kuumba De Falafel serves high quality vegan tapas and falafel sandwiches, as does Falafel Brothers, in Roppongi and Ebisu, and later this year in Shibuya, as well. Los Barbados, a tiny pub, also in Shibuya, is not strictly vegetarian but large parts of its menu are vegan or vegetarian, and clearly marked. The quality of the African, Mediterranean and near/middle eastern food here is tremendous. Hemp Cafe, closer to Ebisu than Shibuya Station, is an all vegan eatery. Blu Jam Cafe has branches in Daikanyama and Azabu Juuban, serving brunch food (all day long), with several very good vegan and vegetarian options. The Nataraj chain is also present. Tudore Tranquility is probably the most high-end veg*n restaurant in Tokyo and gets rave reviews. Reservations are a must, as is a well-loaded wallet.
Homeworks in Azabu Juuban and Hiroo has a selection of tasty vegan and vegetarian sandwiches.
Pita The Great in Akasaka is another high quality falafel/pita shop – if you can put up with the ridiculously slow service and rude attitude. Their pita bread, falafel, tahini etc are also sold at the Nisshin supermarket in Azabu Juuban so recreating what’s sold at the joint in your own kitchen is easy. The Earl is an excellent sandwich shop in the same neighborhood that is vegan- and vegetarian friendly. The Pink Cow, in the same neighborhood is an omni pub/restaurant that also serves excellent vegan and vegetarian fare.
T’s of Jiyugaoka also runs the famous T’s Tantan inside Tokyo and Ueno stations, a vegan ramen shop and a must-do for visitors. The Cantonese restaurant EN inside the Tokyo Station Hotel, although basically omni, serves sublime vegan lunch and dinner courses, arguably the best upscale option in the entire city apart from Tudore Tranquility.
Taiwan Shokudo in Higashi-Nihonbashi serves great Chinese/Taiwanese food, much of it vegan, although some dishes contain egg or dairy. This place is ridiculously cheap. People on very tight budgets may want to choose their accomodation nearby.
Veg Herb Saga and Veg Kitchen in Okachimachi are among the highest-rated Indian restaurants in the city. They are all vegetarian with plenty for vegans and Jain.
Fucha Bon in Iriya (Taito-ku) is often the most highly ranked Tokyo restaurant on Happy Cow and serves shojin ryori (Buddhist temple food) in a luxurious setting.
Kaemon is a great place for visitors to Asakusa to check out. They serve high quality Japanese home-style cooking.
Where to stay
A quick look at the Tokyo map on happycow.net reveals the highest concentration of veg-friendly restaurants, cafes and shops in central and south-western Tokyo, particularly Shinjuku, Shibuya, Daikanyama, Ebisu, Hiroo, Jingumae, Aoyama, Roppongi and Akasaka.
Visitors who don't want to self-cater at all may be best advised to find a hotel in their budget range somewhere near Shibuya or Omotesando, or better yet, right between the two.
For those who want to self-cater to some extent (breakfast!), here are our picks. Criteria for selecting areas for this: they need to be in inner Tokyo (23 wards), close to some major subway train lines, need to have at least three solid, vegan-friendly eateries within walking distance (15 minutes tops) and at least one supermarket or grocery store that carries items international customers will typically require. There needs to be at least one hotel or serviced apartment complex that has kitchens on the rooms. English should be understood at all venues mentioned. Labels and menus should be in English.
Only four areas qualify for now. One more - commercial and financial center Marunouchi with its beautifully restored historic Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace nearby - also theoretically qualifies since it has a brand new serviced apartment complex (of the Ascott brand) but this is beyond the budget of most.
The accommodations we list are the cheapest in the category of foreigner-friendly, kitchen-equipped apartments/rooms. But some of them, although cheapest in this category, are quite expensive. You can go cheaper and more basic if you speak Japanese, or possibly if you book private accommodation on AirBnB, or if you are planning on renting an apartment or house long-term. You can also go a whole lot more expensive and luxurious. This city will have no trouble relieving you of your hard-earned cash. Google is your best friend, the money suckers speak English.
1. Azabu-Juuban
Azabu-Juuban hardly qualifies as a must-see area but it is central, with two subway lines stopping at this station. There is nothing special here just a quirky mix of busy main streets with lots of shops and eateries, and quiet residential backstreets. Some of Tokyo’s famous sights such as Tokyo Tower and Roppongi Hills are within walking distance or a short taxi/train ride away. We choose the relatively reasonable ApartmentHotel Concieria as the center point (due to the small size of the so-called double beds, this may be best for single travelers, not couples; see below for an alternative). The Nisshin supermarket is arguably the best international food store in Tokyo, less than 10 minutes’ walk away. The eateries are: Siddique Palace (Indian with many veg options; does deliveries); Blu Jam Cafe, Mr Farmer and Falafel Bros in Roppongi. There is also Homeworks that has a few pretty good vegan/vegetarian sandwich options and does deliveries, and King Falafel, an Israeli, vegan-friendly sandwich shop. Just a little beyond the 15-minute is Veganic To Go, a cafe that serves a decent burger. Added bonus: Tokyo’s premiere international clinic, the Tokyo Medical and Surgical Clinic, is within 20 minutes’ walking distance, or a 10-minute taxi ride. An alternative to the Concieria for those who stay at least one month (and who don’t want to share a smallish double bed) is the Somerset in Higashi-Azabu. This is more upscale and in a quieter area, but occasionally deals can be had that put the monthly rate close to that of the Concieria.
2. Omotesando/Aoyama/Jingumae
This is one of the most handsome and fashionable areas of Tokyo with a major subway station and tons of spending opportunities. Our central point is the Tokyu Stay Aoyama Premiere. As the name suggests this isn’t exactly cheap but it’s the only place that has rooms with kitchens that does not require a minimum one-month lease. The Oakwood Residence Aoyama is a good option if staying at least for a month. To our knowledge there aren’t any more reasonably priced options in the area that offer a kitchen. Specialty shopping can be done at Kinokuniya, a well-known and expensive supermarket catering to affluent foreigners and Japanese alike, and Seijo Ishii, slightly more reasonable. The eateries are: Mr Farmer for a late breakfast and all-day dining; Tamana Shokudo as well as Eightablish for stylish, upscale vegan dinners; Brown Rice Café for lunches and dinners; Crayon House for an organic, veg-friendly buffet; Hanada Rosso, a vegan burger joint; and Nataraj, a veg-friendly Indian restaurant.
3. Shinjuku
Shinjuku is everything Tokyo in one neighbourhood: corporate high rises, vast train stations, shop till you drop department stores, funky backstreets, trendy eateries, and a beautiful, Japanese-style park. We choose Citadines Shinjuku as the base camp. From here we can easily reach AinSoph.Journey, Chaya Macrobiotics (which also sells its own line of vegan instant meals that can be heated up in a microwave), and Siddique in Kabukicho. Also, close-by is the ramen shop Ouka that has some vegan and vegetarian options. There are also numerous Coco Ichibanya curry shops all over Shinjuku, the closest one being at Akebonobashi station (500 meters from the hotel.) Outside the 15 minute walking limit but within 30 minutes are AinSoph.ripple and Saishoku Kenbi. Most shopping can be done at the (pricey) Isetan department store (where above-mentioned Chaya is also located). There is also the Lima specialty store that has vegan, macrobiotic and organic produce.
4. Okachimachi/Ueno
Not exactly “Little Delhi” but those who want their daily fill of Indian food are best served in this area. It’s a regular neighborhood without any tourist highlights on the east side of Tokyo. That said, Akihabara (“electric town”) and Asakusa (a traditional tourist trap) are close by. Several train stations are in the area. With the Keisei line hub at Ueno, the connection to Narita Airport is convenient. As center point, we choose the Elite Inn Yushima, a serviced apartment complex with sizes and grades for various budgets. Pretty reasonable, all considered. This gives us Vege Herb Saga (highly rated and also serving Jain-compliant food), Veg Kitchen (another highly rated Indian), Akihabara Curry-Kan (a branch of the Siddique chain), Komaki Shokudo (Japanese vegan temple food) and Coco Ichibanya within walking distance (the Coco curry shop is directly at Yushima station.) It’s a short train ride to Tokyo and Ueno stations as well, both of which have locations of the famous T’s Tantan, a vegan noodle shop. There are two local supermarkets nearby. Ambika, an Indian grocery store is also reachable on foot. Ameyoko, a food shopping district famous for its low prices and enormous selection of ingredients – including many non-Japanese ones – is also very close.
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